MOZAMBIQUE

Mozambique is off most peoples' radars as a paradise destination, partly due to the civil war that only ended in 1992, but mostly as it has not been discovered by the masses.

It lies to the north east of South Africa, with Tanzania to the north, Malawi to the west, and the Indian Ocean stretching all the way up its east coast.

It forms part of the backpacker route for overlander trips, mainly from South Africa to Northern Africa. Alternatively travellers can take the South African Baz Bus from Johannesburg which takes you as far as Tofo or use local transport which is fairly hairy and very lengthy. Others will take flights from Johannesburg to Maputo, the capital, Inhambane or Pemba in the north.

If you have time on your hands and are looking for more of an adventure then hire a car from Johannesburg and make the trip yourself. As with any country you learn so much more by driving through it. It is the random road side cashew nut seller that tells you about his village, the fisherman who gives you directions or the dancers and musicians that you pass on the street that make the experience so special. You also just get a buzz from the waving children and the looks of curiosity from the older generations.

The first misconception about travelling in Mozambique is that you need a 4x4 vehicle. Although it would definitely be helpful, it is not by any means necessary. A few years ago, Johnny made the trip from Cape Town to Villanculos in a clapped out 1984 VW Campervan and despite a few flat tyres and moments where he needed a slight push from locals whilst stuck in the sand he was absolutely fine!

The first spot that we would recommend travelling to is Ponta d'Oura, just past the South African border. This is perhaps the only spot where a 4x4 would be helpful due to the very deep sand on most routes into the town. You can however leave your car at the border post for a few days in a secure car park and catch a 4x4 shuttle. Avoid this spot over South African public holidays as it is overrun with holiday makers from Johnannesburg driving around on quad bikes and jet skis. It is blessed with a vast beach, good scuba diving, fishing and home to one of the world's longest right hand point break waves. According to Johnny he had one of the best surfs of his life at Ponta d'Oura. Kicking back in a hamock on the beach with a beer in my hand watching the sun go down on endless sets of perfectly formed waves is a memory he says he will never lose.

Maputo, Mozambique's capital, has a unique African feel and never seems to sleep. Most people use Maputo as a quick stop over before beginning the east coast drive but there is lots to experience if you have the time. Bustling street markets, seafood restaurants and exotic bars with live bands are usually the order of the day. If you're driving then look out of for corrupt police looking for a quick buck by handing out fabricated fines - these can be dealt with very easily with a small "fine" in most cases but i is worth following the rules to the letter anyway.

From Maputo, the coastline stretches up towards Inhambane and Tofo, Vilankulos and the Bazurotu Islands and a stunning and more remote northern section to the country. Make sure you do any driving northwards during daylight as street lighting is poor to nonexistent and even though there is a lot of investment going on and things are constantly improving, some stretches of road are still littered with pot holes.