Well someone had to do it didn’t they? Earlier this year I got to spend four days with Skeleton Coast Safaris exploring this beautiful part of Namibia. This is without a doubt the most incredible way to experience the Skeleton Coast and if you are even thinking about a trip, don’t hesitate one second longer!
I wasn’t about to turn down this opportunity and the more I read about the Schoeman family legacy and the area itself, the more intrigued and excited I was to have the opportunity to explore this historic land of rolling sand dunes, seemingly never-ending valleys inhabited sporadically by the nomadic Himba tribe and of course, the deserted beaches.
Louw Schoeman was a major player in the process to formalise the Skeleton Coast National Park in Namibia in 1971 and since then he and his four sons have set up Skeleton Coast Safaris and guided many adventurous souls around the area. They are unbelievably knowledgeable and have unrivalled knowledge of the region's indigenous flora and fauna and stories of the many shipwrecks and deserted diamond mines dotted along the coast.
This is Namibian exploring at its best, saying goodbye to the relative bustle of capital city Windhoek, we were soon flying northwest over vast stretches of barren but beautiful landscapes before landing in what I can honestly say is the middle of nowhere. Whilst each lodge on the trip blends seamlessly into its surroundings, the only life you’ll see in this part of Namibia are desert-adapted oryx, elephant and even lion and possibly also catch a sighting of the most shy of all the animals in the area, the elusive brown hyena.
Driving from the air-strip to our first camp we passed a solitary bull elephant in must (a period where the elephant’s testosterone levels are extremely high and they are likely to be more aggressive than usual) who gave us a good look before continuing on what we were told by Bertus (our pilot/driver/guide/fountain of knowledge) would be a 70 kilometre walk through the night to find water. Either he didn’t take to us too well or he had got tired on his hike because when we returned to the plane the next day we found considerable damage to the tail wing where he had clearly leant against it. This could have been a considerable problem seeing as we were due to fly a couple of hundred kilometres further north along The Skeleton Coast to our next camp but this was merely a chance to demonstrate the organisation of the team looking after us and the efficiency of their operation. They had a replacement plane ready to whisk us on our way in less than an hour, considering our location this was quite a remarkable achievement!
Up near the Kunene River in the north of the Skeleton Coast region we were introduced to two local Himba families. The brief but extremely humbling encounter was an indication of just how harsh this area is, given the difficulties in living off the land. Their existence depends on the rains and they are forced to walk for days to find new homes when their valley becomes too dry. A herd of goats is about all they have but they fashion bracelets and baskets from the land for themselves and of course, for sale too! Himba ladies cover themselves in a thick layer of ochre which is a deep red colour and have amazing long, braided hair, signs that their traditions and identity have survived many a drought and Namibia’s long struggle for independence.
Other highlights on a skeleton coast safari include rolling down the roaring sand dunes whilst keeping an eye out for springbok and oryx, walking through crumbling settlements which were once the homes of explorers on their quest for a diamond fortune and views from the plane of seals in colonies that number in their thousands and a flurry of so many flamingos that the lagoons seem to turn pink.
I didn’t want this Skeleton Coast adventure to end, but not getting back on the plane would’ve meant a long old walk to find civilisation again (that’s if I’d known which way it was).
- Doug
You can find details of this trip here
To find out more about The Skeleton Coast, or any other Pepper experience in Namibia get in touch at hello@pepperexperience.com or have a look at our Namibian trip inspiration page